IAN ELS, A PORT GUIDE WITH P&O CRUISES, HAS LIVED IN HAMBURG FOR 22 YEARS.
HE TELLS US WHY THE CITY IS ONE OF EUROPE’S FINEST
ILLUSTRATIONS JAMES BOAST
Hamburg is such a clean and green city, with numerous open spaces and waterways. People love to live life outdoors, walking and cycling along the lakes and Elbe River, or just relaxing in one of the many parks. One of my favourites is Jenisch Park. It has a beautiful old manor house and stunning views of the Elbe River.
Hamburg also has loads of historical attractions that survived the bombing raids during the Second World War. But today, with over 40,000 millionaires here – more than in any other city in Germany – Hamburg attracts innovative startup companies from around the world, bringing with it an international flair and outlook.
Hamburg’s different districts have different moods. Downtown is for daytime and port is for party. Families might spend the day downtown on the ‘high street’, Moenckebergstrasse, shopping and enjoying a bratwurst. I prefer Sternschanze, close to St Pauli, and Ottenser Hauptstrasse – here, you’ll find local designers and home grown products. Most of the districts have their own world-class eateries with buzzing nightlife; others have quirky personalities, such as the famous Reeperbahn.
HafenCity, built over the past 20 years, is the proud patron of the Elbphilharmonie Orchestra and a fabulous attraction with a great vibe and sense of excitement. The Elbphilharmonie building is worth a visit for the amazing city and river views from the viewing platform alone.
Because the city of Hamburg is built along the Elbe, life here revolves around the port and piers. Boat tours to the port area and along the banks of the river let you see beautiful homes up close, perched along the embankment.
If you haven’t been before, take a panoramic overview tour of the city to get an overall impression. If you know the city already, I recommend a visit to Germany’s top attraction, The Miniatur Wunderland museum. Make no mistake, this place (especially a behind the scenes tour) stuns young and old alike. It is unique and a bucket-list experience. Somewhat more sombre would be a visit to a former Second World War concentration camp (Bergen-Belsen or Neuengamme) or a walk around the world’s largest rural cemetery in Ohlsdorf.
Germany’s kaffee und kuchen (coffee and cake) culture is big in Hamburg. Look out for a Café Junge – the chain boasts a great selection of cakes and pastries. And if you’re in St Pauli, try Zuckermonarchie. My favourites are franzbrötchen, a thin pastry rolled up with caramelised cinnamon sugar, and butterkuchen, a simple German butter cake baked on a tray with flakes of butter, sugar and streusel crumb topping.
And you can’t come to Hamburg without trying our famous fish bun. The best can be found at a small place called Bruecke 10 on the Landungsbruecken. We love sitting here eating a fish bun with a beer, watching ships come and go from the floating docks.
If you come at Christmas, my favourite Christmas market is the Roncalli Market in front of Hamburg’s Town Hall. You’ll find only traditional handmade German products, including food stalls serving bratwurst, sauerkraut, dark beer and other German specialities. Take home dresdner stollen (Christmas fruit bread) and Christmas decorations including nutcrackers or other wooden or handmade tree decorations. Another favourite buy is the herrnhuter stern, a bright, colourful star-shaped lamp to hang outdoors.
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