The real
Madeira
It’s time to look at Madeira afresh. Local writer Joana Taborda shakes off the island’s sleepy reputation to reveal a cooler, more authentic vibe
Photography Anna Huix
Madeira’s coastline
Joaquina and Tomé at Jaca Hostel
here was a time when Madeira was thought of as a package-holiday destination in the middle of the Atlantic with nice weather and pretty scenery, but not much to offer by way of excitement. But times have changed. A new type of traveller is uncovering the many charms of the Portuguese island, eager to explore its lush forests, chase down its waves and savour its bolo do caco, that delicious potato bread drenched in garlic butter.
I’d be lying if I said I always wanted to live on an island. I’m from Lisbon, and Madeira was never on my radar. But everything changed after the pandemic when Madeira was considered among the safest places to travel in Europe. Suddenly, everyone was coming here. And not just for a holiday, but to establish roots.
I saw a bubble of remote workers like me moving to Madeira, and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Three years later, I’m still here. Little by little, I’ve ticked off countless levadas, the iconic hiking trails set along irrigation channels; did yoga on a stand-up paddleboard in the Atlantic; and camped amid mountains and forests while gazing at the stars.
But for me, nothing beats Fanal. A mystical fog often wraps the 100-year-old til trees of this large forest on the northwest of the island. I’m not the only one taken by it. In 2023, a film crew came to Madeira to shoot scenes for the Star Wars series The Acolyte, and Fanal was top of their list. The area represents a section of the Laurisilva, a UNESCO-protected forest that offers a glimpse of the landscape as it was when the Portuguese discovered the island in 1419. Indeed, they named it after its abundance of wood (madeira). Stretches like this remain untouched, allowing visitors to see the island’s true essence.
Another way to get close to Madeira’s natural beauty is by canyoning. Combining techniques such as climbing, swimming and rappelling, this adventurous sport is becoming increasingly popular on the island. The rugged cliffs and numerous watercourses scattered across its 740 square kilometres provide the perfect setting for it, with the north side being favoured in summer and the south in winter.
More than the landscape, what’s kept me here is the people. For years, I’ve been searching for my perfect local pub. I found it in places like FugaCidade, a craft beer bar in the heart of Funchal, the island’s capital. Duarte, the owner, was born and raised in Madeira and got his first taste of craft beer through a friend from Vilhoa, the island’s official craft beer supplier. ‘Back then, they had a small tuk-tuk at the Christmas fair selling Portuguese craft beer. As soon as I tasted it, I was immediately taken by it, and thought we should have it in our bar,’ he tells me.
It took a while to get people hooked on craft beer, but Duarte has since gathered a crowd of locals and tourists who share his passion. FugaCidade recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, and the place was absolutely packed. Alongside Duarte’s beer, you’ll always find a dentinho. Translated as ‘small tooth’, it’s basically a little free nibble, a tradition that is still alive in some of the city’s older joints, but not so common in the mainland. At FugaCidade, it is a plate of fava beans served in a sort of pickled sauce known as escabeche.
Ponta de São Lourenço
Breakfast at Jaca Hostel
Three House Hotel
Levada in Fanal
Craft beer, FugaCidade
As a local small business owner, Duarte is glad to support his peers. When asked for his travel recommendations, he says: ‘I would go for a small tour through the old roads to find the last strongholds of small local businesses where you can still breathe a bit of the local soul. Then, for some comfort food at a unique place called Casa dos Salgados in Camacha.’
The culinary scene in Madeira has evolved a lot over the past decade. You’ll still find the traditional restaurants serving peixe de espada (scabbard fish) and espetada (beef skewers), but there are also innovative places like Three House Hotel, a cool rooftop spot dishing out everything from brunch to cocktails, and the Art Food Corner, a café attached to a gallery where you can get great coffee and veggie-friendly treats. The island also has a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants, and in 2024 it got a new star with Desarma, where chef Octávio Freitas gives a modern twist to local ingredients like scabbard fish eggs, trout and limpets.
Funchal isn’t the only place that has witnessed changes recently. Up north, in Porto da Cruz, a new community has formed around surfing and paragliding. Joaquina and Tomé, who run the Jaca Hostel, found themselves at the heart of it when they opened their hostel here in 2018. ‘Unintentionally, we ended up being visionaries because now Porto da Cruz is undoubtedly a place for young folks. Not just because of the surf, but also because of all the hikes around it and the paragliding,’ says Joaquina.
Fabrica de Santo Antonio
Funchal streets
Duarte from FugaCidade
FugaCidade
Praia da Maiata
Tomé, who hails from Porto da Cruz, originally studied to be a brewmaster. He travelled around the world, often living in hostels. When he returned to Madeira, he wanted to open a hostel but didn’t go ahead with it until he met Joaquina. Together, they came up with the brand, remodelled the house (which belonged to Tomé’s family), and slowly created a sense of community in this small coastal town. ‘We open our doors to the public with our events, like pizza and the burger nights, and that’s why we like to say we’re a house for friends,’ says Joaquina. ‘Our Madeiran friends can travel a bit on their own island, and the tourists can get to know what Madeira is like through the locals, not just the basic things you find in a guidebook,’ she continues.
A lot has changed in Porto da Cruz since they launched Jaca. ‘Before, you didn’t see a single tourist here. It was just locals bodyboarding and surfing. Now that’s clearly changed, but you also get this super cool vibe,’ they assure me. ‘I think we contributed to that vibe, as well as other businesses like Madeira Surf Camp, which opened before us, and other surf schools that have slowly emerged and brought people out here. All of that has helped spread the word about Porto da Cruz,’ Joaquina says.
For their guests, they like to suggest local restaurants such as A Pipa or Fragateira, a small spot close to the town’s parish church that is known for its gaiado seco (dried skipjack tuna) and vinho seco, a type of dry wine usually drank during Madeira’s numerous festivities. ‘If you start chatting with the owner, he might even take you to his cellar and proudly show you his production,’ reveals Joaquina. She sincerely hopes that the town won’t lose these kinds of places because, for her, Porto da Cruz is a slice of heaven.
Joaquina and Tomé also try to recommend nearby levadas to their guests. ‘We have a top five, but there are so many more to see on the island like the Levada do Castelejo, Boca do Risco or Vereda do Larano.’
And, of course, after a long walk, there’s always room for a poncha, that deceivingly strong drink combining the local sugarcane rum, honey and fruit juice, which you’ll find in pretty much every bar in town. Katrepa is their top choice in Porto da Cruz.
The couple has since brought the Jaca concept to Funchal, with a similar vibe, thanks to the Jacafé, which has become a meeting point for the city’s younger crew. Now, as new parents, they have another kind of venture on their hands, but they have shown me that this island has a lot more to give if you know where to look.
Discover a new side of Madeira
Eats and Streets of Funchal Five delicious foodie experiences and a delightful taste of Madeira’s culture.
Levada Walk Enjoy this gentle stroll along Madeira’s unique levada irrigation system.
Canyoning Explore Madeira’s stunning landscapes with an energising, action-packed canyoning experience.
Book shore experiences before you sail at my.pocruises.com
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